Photo by: Wesley Bauman /WBI. (c)2010 as printed in the VC Reporter
Ojai Beverage Company, to beer-finity and beyond!
By D.K. Crawford 06/10/2010
Ojai Beverage Company
655 E. Ojai Ave.
Ojai
646-1700
$3-19
“Arrogant Bastard, Bikini Blonde,” my companion muttered behind me, sounding like he had Tourette’s as we walked to the back of the Ojai Beverage Company. “Weed!” he exclaimed, then stopped and innocently pointed to a bottle. And sure enough, there it was in the cooler, Weed Ale.
With the copious types of beer (more than 750), wine (1000+), liquors and hard liquor we passed just walking from the door to the bar, and their cheeky names, it was hard to even begin to concentrate on food.
We sussed out the seating. There was a high-ceilinged, adobe-roofed patio in back, still warm from the heat of the day. The patio tables were spread out and felt romantic and removed. Inside amongst the bottles, the tables were squeezed closer together, and an upbeat crowd vibed to Nine Inch Nails, Radiohead and Sublime. We chose to sit at the bar tables and gaze over the sea of bottles.
If you can’t find what you want on the drink menu, feel free to browse the stacks. But we found fun almost immediately in the form of flights of beer and wine. We shared three 5-ounce pours of beer for $6: St. Louis Peach Cider, Wyder’s Pear Cider and Old Rasputin Stout Beer. Chupacabras Pale Ale from Baja was also on tap.
As our beer arrived, we asked for water a second time. The bartender, also our waiter, was very descriptive and friendly but certainly more focused on getting us drinks rather than bringing us water. It took a total of three requests and about 35 minutes for two glasses of tap.
The cider/beer flight arrived expeditiously, sparkling in small cylindrical glasses. The white pear cider was slightly tart, fresh, clear and bubbly. The golden peach cider had more rounded fruit flavors, and the chocolaty, thick Rasputin was intense and delicious. One of the Ojai Beverage Company’s signature dessert offerings uses this unique beer in a float, along with vanilla ice cream and a chocolate chip cookie.
Our dishes started to arrive on large square and rectangular white plates. First thought, “Fun presentations!” Second thought, “Generous portions.” The buffalo chicken on endive leaves appetizer was quite spicy and generously sprinkled with blue cheese and bacon. The flavors were exciting but the chicken was chewy, not moist.
With dinner, we shared the interesting reds wine flight: four 1-ounce pours for $10. It started with a young, vibrant malbec from the Loire Valley and ended with a robust blend of five wines from Lebanon. There was a charbono and another multiple blend in between. There were sour, smooth and smoky sips, but that final wine, a full-bodied 2000 Chateau Kafraya from Lebanon, is one I’d like to experience again.
My companion first tasted the Ensalada Helene that comprised arugula, shaved and roasted beets, and caramelized onion topped with thin slices of tri-tip. It was dressed with walnut oil and a balsamic glaze. “It’s delicate,” he commented — truly the last thing I expected to hear about a steak salad. Though the tri-tip was well-done, it was fork tender; and because elements were shaved or thinly sliced, it was indeed delicate. There were also sugary walnuts and sharp cheese crumbles that, together with the beets, onions and peppery arugula, were blissful.
Next we sampled the Leaning Tower of Caesar, a beautifully displayed, deconstructed salad with a twist. Two huge Parmesan tuilles starring as croutons were canted at an angle. On either side of them were sliced, crunchy romaine hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and ripe avocados, all drizzled with a creamy, cheesy Caesar dressing. In the center of the salad sat two gorgeous anchovies that would make a Roman emperor proud. What’s fun about deconstructed food is that every bite is different. What’s frustrating is that it’s hard to get all the intended flavors to blend; and though the presentation was such great fun, the flavors never fully melded for me.
We also tried the three-taco trio (part of a special menu) for $5. Each was folded into two white-corn tortillas. The pork shoulder carnitas, slowly braised in orange juice and Coca-Cola, was by far our favorite. The meat was tangy and moist and had crunchy, crispy caramelized edges. The cubed arrachera skirt steak taco was also tasty with more savory flavors. The third taco, chicken with sautéed peppers, onions and mango-avocado salsa, was tasty, but not the star of the plate. The specials were a highlight — simple, fresh and each flavorfully unique.
Finally, we ended the meal with the Crème Brewlee. Each week they take a classic crème brulée and infuse a different beer into it. This week we lucked out — the beer was Young’s Double Chocolate Stout. Each bite tasted like the richest mocha you’ve had; and if you waited a minute or so between bites, you could feel the burn of the stout at the back of your throat. This dish was something my companions and I are still talking about a week later.
At the end of our evening, we felt transported. The presentations, the eclectic beer and wine flights and specials all added layers of interest to what was already a new menu and dining experience. There is something cosmopolitan about being surrounded by so many offerings from around the globe. It is Ojai, yes, but it’s an epicurious gateway for oenophiles and zythophiles to what lies beyond.
