Photos by Chris Jensen
Originally printed in the VC Reporter
11/11/2010
Chinese Dumpling House
575 W. Channel Islands Blvd.
Port Hueneme
985-4849
$4.25-$14.95
Neon signs compete all along the strip malls lining Channel Islands Boulevard. Blockbuster, Ralph’s, Subway, Starbucks — there are multiple chain businesses vying for attention, and then there is the Chinese Dumpling House, a unique find with a story I long to know.
What first struck me as I was ushered in and told to choose a table was the duct tape used to repair the torn seat of the vintage booths that look like something you might find in a bowling alley. Then I noticed the cracks in the walls and the threadbare carpet.
A pot of hot jasmine tea and two cups arrived along with our menus. As I filled my cup, I watched my partner scanning the pages and flipping, flipping, flipping. There were 195 items to choose from on the menu, and only six of them (including pot stickers and wontons) were listed under “dumpling.”
I was intrigued by the asparagus crab soup, crispy duck served on a lotus bun, and the walnut sliced fish. There were also a section of moo shu, another of egg foo young and 14 tofu dishes. As we considered our orders, crispy noodles arrived alongside a fuchsia sweet dipping sauce with a hot mustard daub in the center.
Going toward the bathrooms to wash my hands, I saw that a large round table’s edges were wrapped in more silver duct tape. I wondered what had happened to the table’s edges that warranted such repair? There was also a table covered in piles of beautiful, fresh green beans and a pair of scissors. There was another booth with various boxes and things piled onto it almost like storage. And the art on the walls was a mix of Mexican, Oriental, tiling and impressionistic pieces.
The bones of the restaurant and the amount of offerings on the menu made me wonder how it was in its heyday. I kept envisioning how things were when the Chinese Dumpling House opened - maybe the duct-taped tables were covered in tablecloths? I don’t know if my vision ever existed but I could tell things had shifted over the years.
When the server arrived, we tried to order the crispy duck but, sadly, it wasn’t available. In its stead we chose the chicken shu-mai dumpling, General (Tso’s) chicken, cashew shrimp, the asparagus crab soup, and the special mixed-meat egg foo young.
Our huge bowl of steaming soup arrived first, and the waitress ladled it into two smaller bowls. Its colors were gorgeous, and as the ladle swirled through the soup, its hues of daffodil-yellow yolks, flowing egg whites, crisp fresh green cut asparagus and pink crab looked like a living, moving version of Monet’s Water Lilies.
It was hot — the kind of heat that burns tongues — and did. But once it cooled, it was mellow and rich and soothing, like the type of soup that could heal a cold.
Our chicken shu-mai dumplings arrived in a tin and were ground chicken wrapped in a rice wrapper with bits of peas and carrots. They weren’t my favorite and certainly not for those watching salt in their diets. They were tender and flavorful but lacked nuance.
Our three entrees arrived shortly after our appetizer, and the General chicken filled the air with its garlicky, exotic scent. Each dish was beautifully presented, and a bowl of fluffy white rice accompanied them.
The General chicken tasted as incredible as it smelled. Each piece of chicken was lightly battered and fried so it was both crispy and tender and the sauce was intoxicating — sweet, lightly spicy and piquant.
The cashew shrimp had a thick, concentrated garlicky sauce with a strong hidden note that tasted like a fermented paste or wine, almost like a deep, rich demi-glace. The shrimp were tender and the cashews toasted, crunchy and sweet. It also had chopped zucchini and jicama that gave it crunch and diversity and ultimately lightened the heaviness of the dish.
The egg foo young special, featuring beef, pork and chicken, was unexpected. Rather than being something like an omelet stuffed with fillings, it was a pile of vegetables that had smaller, pancake-sized patties underneath.
The eggy disks were filled with vegetables and were so dense that three bites started to be too much for me. It was a heavy dish with a lighter topping that just seemed incongruous. I would happily recommend the first two entrees but I personally wouldn’t dare the egg foo young again.
The service was so helpful and kind and personable, and the prices really reasonable. This is the kind of restaurant where, when we pulled out a huge camera and flash, rather than asking us not to snap photos, the waitress cocked her hip and struck a silly pose. It’s comfortable and feels very much like a family-run business.
The mysteries remain. What were the original plans for the Chinese Dumpling House and how in the world did it get the name dumpling house when only four out of 195 offerings are actually dumplings? Let me know if you get the back-story or know its history. Meanwhile, I’ll relish in having found an excellent General (Tso’s) chicken (it’s been years), and I’m willing to bet the fresh green beans will be amazing tomorrow.
Comments from the VC Reporter
Dumpling House. Next time order the garlic green beans (an absolute must), Sesame chicken (better than candy), and the Lemon Chicken. If for some reason they are not on the menu ask anyway.
